Frequently asked questions

Yes, both torsion and extension cables. A loose, hanging, or snapped cable is a safety problem, so don't operate the door and don't touch the cables; they connect to the spring system and can be under serious tension. If the door is stuck partway up, leave it where it is and call. We treat cable failures as same-day work.

We're based in Olathe and cover 45 cities across the KC metro, on both sides of the state line, from Leavenworth down to Paola and out east past Blue Springs. Type your city into the search on our service areas page, and if you don't see it, call anyway; odds are we're already working nearby.

HomeLink programming depends on your vehicle's make, model, and year, and some cars need an adapter. The best resource is homelink.com, which has vehicle-specific instructions. If you've followed their steps and it still won't pair, give us a call and we'll figure it out together.

Honest answer: no. App and WiFi connectivity issues are handled through Chamberlain and LiftMaster support, and they're genuinely the right people for it. Start at support.chamberlain.com or the help section inside the myQ app. If the opener itself is acting up, not just the app, that's us, and we're happy to help.

Yes, we're available 24/7. After-hours emergency rates apply, and we tell you that upfront before anything else happens. If your car is stuck behind a door that won't open, say so when you call; that gets emergency priority.

Yes, that's a garage door re-frame, and it's one of our specialties. We rebuild the opening itself, not just the door. We recently converted two 8x7 doors into a single 17x8 opening in a day. It's also the fix when termites or rot have damaged the framing and the door can't work right until the opening does.

If your home was built before 1978, the paint around your garage door opening may contain lead, and disturbing it during a door removal can spread it. We're EPA Lead-Safe certified, which means we remove old doors on pre-1978 homes using containment practices that keep that dust out of your home, safely and up to code.

Yes. We service and install commercial overhead doors and hollow metal doors for businesses across the KC metro, alongside our residential work. If it's part of a door, we work on it.

Once a year is the standard for a door that gets daily use. Our tune-up covers lubrication, a balance test, hardware tightening, a safety sensor check, and a full visual inspection. Springs, rollers, hinges, cables, and the opener all last longer when the door is balanced and moving the way it should.

They shoot an invisible beam across the doorway, and if anything breaks that beam while the door is closing, the door reverses. That's what keeps the door off your car bumper, your pets, and your kids. Each sensor should show a steady light. A blinking light means they're blocked or out of alignment, which is a quick fix. No lights at all means they've lost power and the wiring needs a look.

The noise tells us a lot. Squeaking is usually hinges that need lubrication. Grinding can be a thrown cable or hardware rubbing the track. Loud popping as the door moves through the curve can mean the sections themselves are starting to fail, which is worth catching before it takes the door off track. If a tune-up is overdue, most of the small noises get handled in one visit.

One loud bang, the kind that shakes the house, is almost always a spring snapping, a cable letting go, or a bottom fixture splitting off. Even if the door still moves, don't keep running it; the opener isn't built to lift the door's full weight on its own, and you'll strip the gears. Look for a gap in the spring or a hanging cable, and have it inspected before the next open or close.

No, and please don't try to force it closed or run the opener. Don't remove any bottom fixtures either. A door with rollers out of the track can come down all at once. Leave it exactly where it is and call us; we treat off-track doors as a same-day priority.

In most cases, yes. If your tracks and header can accommodate it, converting from extension springs to a torsion system gives you smoother operation, better balance, and fewer parts that can whip around if something lets go. We'll confirm your setup qualifies when we come out.

Torsion springs mount on the wall right above the door and do their work by twisting. Extension springs run along the tracks on each side and stretch as the door moves. Extension systems should always have safety cables, which come standard with every extension spring replacement we do. If your tracks are set up for it, we can also convert an extension setup to torsion, which is a safer and more reliable system all around.

It feels like a ghost, but there's usually a simple answer. The most common cause is a spare remote in a junk drawer, glove box, or backpack with something pressing the button. Pull the battery out of any spares and see if it stops. If not, check the sensors and the wall panel lock button. In rare cases a neighbor's remote is on the same frequency, and the fix is erasing the opener's memory and reprogramming your remotes with new codes.

A beep every 30 seconds with a red LED is almost always the backup battery inside the opener telling you it's dead. It's usually a straightforward swap, but we like to confirm it isn't the board acting up before replacing parts, so give us a call and we'll sort it out.

First question we ask: did you put LED bulbs in or near the opener? Regular LEDs put out radio interference that blocks the remote signal, so swap them for bulbs marked garage door compatible. If it's not the bulbs, try a fresh battery, then reprogramming. A remote that only works from a few feet away usually means the opener's antenna or logic board is the problem, and we can sort that out on site.

Those blinks are a check engine light for your opener. On LiftMaster and Chamberlain units, count the flashes between pauses: one blink is sensor wiring, four is sensor alignment, five points at the motor, ten or nonstop usually means the logic board. Genie and other brands use their own codes. Count the blinks before you call and we'll show up already knowing what we're walking into.

Nine times out of ten it's the safety sensors, the two little boxes near the floor on each side of the tracks. If a light on either one is blinking, the beam between them is blocked or knocked out of line. Check for anything in the doorway, cobwebs, a kid's toy, even something leaning nearby, then check whether the lock button on your wall panel got pressed. If the sensors are clear and steady and it still reverses, the opener's travel limits or logic board need a look.

It depends on the age of the door, the extent of the damage, and how much you've already put into repairs. If you're replacing panels every year or the door is 20+ years old and showing its age, a replacement might make more financial sense. We'll give you an honest recommendation based on what we see, not what adds more to a commission check

We service all major residential brands: Clopay, Amarr, Wayne Dalton, CHI, DoorLink, Ideal, and others. For openers, we work on LiftMaster, Chamberlain, Genie, Craftsman, and most other brands on the market. If you've got a door and it's not working right, we can fix it.

Most repairs take between 30 minutes and two hours depending on the issue. A roller swap is on the shorter end. A full cable and spring replacement takes a bit longer. We'll give you a time estimate along with your quote so you can plan your day.

Yes. We stock the most common parts on the truck: springs, cables, rollers, hinges, bottom seals, and opener components. The majority of residential repairs are diagnosed and completed the same visit without waiting on special orders.

Yes. We charge a service call fee. If we need to make a return visit, we generally remove a second charge.

If the door is making unusual noises or moving erratically, stop using it until a technician can look at it. A minor issue like a worn roller is low risk, but a fraying cable or a scraping bottom fixture that's about to fail can cause the door to drop without warning. When in doubt, disconnect the opener and leave the door closed until we can get out there.

Common signs include grinding or squealing noises, the door moving unevenly or jerking, visible gaps when closed, the door reversing before fully closing, slow response from the opener, or the door feeling heavier than usual when lifted manually. If anything feels or sounds different than it used to, something is wearing out.

It depends on the issue. A roller replacement costs less than a full spring swap, and a simple adjustment costs less than a panel replacement. We quote every repair on-site before we start so you know the exact price.

We inspect the framing before every installation. If the jambs or header need work, we'll let you know and quote the re-frame separately. We're a licensed general contractor, so we handle structural framing in-house, no need to call a separate carpenter.

We measure for you. The opening width, height, headroom above the opening, sideroom beside the tracks, and backroom depth all factor into which door fits your garage. We handle this during the on-site visit so you don't have to guess.

Absolutely. We install customer-supplied doors from big box stores and other suppliers. Just let us know the brand, model, and size ahead of time so we can verify it fits your opening and has all the necessary hardware included.

We install doors from Clopay, DoorLink, Amarr and CHI. Each brand offers different price points, insulation levels, and design options. We'll help you choose the right fit based on your home, your budget, and how you use your garage.

Yes. We remove your existing door, track, and hardware as part of the installation. We haul everything away so you're not left with a pile of old panels in your driveway.

Most single-door installations are completed in 1-2 hours. A double-wide door is typically completed in around 3-4 hours. We handle everything in one visit: removal of the old door, full installation of the new one, and final testing before we leave.

We use USA Made, oil-tempered steel torsion springs sized to match your specific door weight and height. We don't use whatever's cheapest or whatever's on the truck. We match the spring to the door so it performs correctly and lasts the full cycle life.

We DO NOT recommend it. Torsion springs are under extreme tension and REQUIRE specific winding bars, experience, and knowledge of spring mechanics to handle safely. **Improper installation can result in serious injury, death or damage to the door**. This is one repair that should always be left to a trained technician.

Torsion springs have a finite lifespan measured in cycles: one cycle is one open and one close. A standard spring is rated for roughly 10,000 cycles. If your household opens the door 4–6 times a day, that's about 7–10 years of life. They don't break because something went wrong. They break because they've done their job for as long as they were designed to.

If your door has two springs and only one broke, we strongly recommend replacing both. The other spring has the same amount of wear and is likely close behind. Replacing both at once saves you a second service call and ensures the door stays balanced.

Most torsion spring replacements take about 45 minutes to an hour from the time we start working. That includes releasing the old spring, installing the new one, winding it to the correct tension, and testing the door through multiple cycles.

You shouldn't. The spring counterbalances the full weight of the door, and without it the opener is trying to lift 75–400 pounds on its own. Forcing it can burn out your opener motor, snap cables, or cause the door to drop unexpectedly. Keep the door closed and call us.

Our Service Call Fee is cheaper than an ER copay.

The most obvious sign is a loud bang from the garage followed by the door not opening. If you look at the horizontal bar above your door and see a gap in the coil or the spring hanging loose, it's broken. The door will feel extremely heavy if you try to lift it manually — do not force it.